James T. Kirby, Jr., Ph.D.

Publications

Edited Proceedings

  1. Kaliakin, V. N., Kirby, J. T., Yamamuro, J., Bhattacharya, B. and Shenton, H. W. (eds), EM2004, The 17th ASCE Engineering Mechanics Conference, Newark, June 13-16, 2004. Published on CD.

Chapters in Books

  1. Kirby, J. T., 1997, "Nonlinear, dispersive long waves in water of variable depth", in Gravity Waves in Water of Finite Depth, J. N. Hunt (ed). Advances in Fluid Mechanics}, 10, 55-125, Computational Mechanics Publications.
    (pdf)

  2. Martin, P. A., Dalrymple, R. A. and Kirby, J. T., 1997, "Parabolic modelling of water waves'', in Gravity Waves in Water of Finite Depth, J. N. Hunt (ed). Advances in Fluid Mechanics}, 10, 169-213, Computational Mechanics Publications.

  3. Kirby, J. T., 2003, "Boussinesq models and applications to nearshore wave propagation, surfzone processes and wave-induced currents", in Advances in Coastal Modeling, V. C. Lakhan (ed), Elsevier, 1-41.
    (pdf)

Refereed Journal Papers

  1. Kirby, J.T., Dalrymple, R.A. and Liu, P.L.-F., 1981, "Modification of edge waves by barred-beach topography", Coastal Engineering, 5, 35-49.

  2. Kirby, J.T. and Dalrymple, R.A., 1983, "Propagation of obliquely incident water waves over a submerged trench", Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 133, 47-63.
    (pdf)

  3. Kirby, J.T. and Dalrymple, R.A., 1983, "Oblique envelope solutions of the Davey-Stewartson equations in intermediate water depth", Physics of Fluids, 26, 2916-2918.
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  4. Kirby, J.T. and Dalrymple, R.A., 1983, "A parabolic equation for the combined refraction-diffraction of Stokes waves by mildly-varying topography", Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 136, 453-466.
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  5. Kirby, J.T., 1984, "A note on linear surface wave-current interaction over slowly varying topography'', Journal of Geophysical Research, 89, 745-747.
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  6. Dalrymple, R.A., Kirby, J.T. and Hwang, P.A., 1984, "Wave diffraction due to areas of energy dissipation", Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 110, 67-79.
    (pdf)

  7. Kirby, J.T. and Dalrymple, R.A., 1984, "Verification of a parabolic equation for propagation of weakly-nonlinear waves", Coastal Engineering, 8, 219-232.

  8. Liu, P.L.-F., Yoon, S.B. and Kirby, J.T., 1985, "Nonlinear refraction-diffraction of waves in shallow water", Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 153, 184-201.
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  9. Kirby, J.T., 1986, "A general wave equation for waves over rippled beds", Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 162, 171-186.
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  10. Kirby, J. T., 1986, "On the gradual reflection of weakly-nonlinear Stokes waves in regions with varying topography", Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 162, 187-209.
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  11. Kirby, J. T. and Dalrymple, R. A., 1986, "Modelling waves in surfzones and around islands", Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 112, 78-93.
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  12. Kirby, J. T., 1986, "Higher-order approximations in the parabolic equation method for water waves", Journal of Geophysical Research, 91, 933-952.
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  13. Dalrymple, R. A. and Kirby, J. T., 1986, "Water waves over ripples", Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 112, 309-319.
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  14. Kirby, J. T. and Dalrymple, R. A., 1986, "An approximate model for nonlinear dispersion in monochromatic wave propagation models", Coastal Engineering, 9, 545-561, 1986, and reply to discussions, 11, 87-92, 1987.

  15. Kirby, J. T., 1986, "Open boundary condition in the parabolic equation method", Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 112, 460-465.
    (pdf)

  16. Kirby, J. T., 1986, "Rational approximations in the parabolic equation method for water waves", Coastal Engineering, 10, 355-378.

  17. Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A. and Seo, S. N., 1987, "Propagation of obliquely incident water waves over a trench 2. Currents flowing along the trench", Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 176, 95-116.
    (pdf)

  18. Kirby, J. T., 1988, "Current effects on resonant reflection of surface water waves by sand bars", Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 186, 501-520.
    (pdf)

  19. Dalrymple, R. A. and Kirby, J. T., 1988, "Models for very wide-angle water waves and wave diffraction", Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 192, 33-50.
    (pdf)

  20. Kirby, J. T. and Vengayil, P., 1988, "Non-resonant and resonant reflection of long waves in varying channels", Journal of Geophysical Research, 93, 10782-10796.
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  21. Kirby, J. T., 1988, "Parabolic wave computations in non-orthogonal coordinate systems", Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 114, 673-685.
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  22. Kirby, J. T. and Chen, T-M., 1989, "Surface waves on vertically sheared flows: approximate dispersion relations", Journal of Geophysical Research, 94, 1013-1027.
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  23. Dalrymple, R. A., Suh, K., Kirby, J. T. and Chae, J. W., 1989, "Models for very wide-angle water waves and wave diffraction. Part 2. Irregular bathymetry", Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 201, 299-322.
    (pdf)

  24. Kirby, J. T., 1989, "A note on parabolic radiation boundary conditions for elliptic wave calculations", Coastal Engineering, 13, 211-218.

  25. Kirby, J. T., 1989, "Propagation of surface waves over an undulating bed", Physics of Fluids A, 1, 1898-1899.
    (pdf)

  26. Dalrymple, R. A., Munasinghe, L. C., Wood, D. H. and Kirby, J. T., 1990, "A very wide angle acoustic model for underwater sound propagation", Journal of the Acoustical Society of America, 88, 1863-1876.
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  27. Suh, K. D., Dalrymple, R. A. and Kirby, J. T., 1990, "An angular spectrum model for propagation of Stokes waves", Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 221, 205-232, 1990.
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  28. Kirby, J. T., 1991, "Intercomparison of truncated series solutions for shallow water waves", Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 117, 143-155.
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  29. Bailard, J. A., DeVries, J. W. and Kirby, J. T., 1992, "Considerations in using Bragg reflection for storm erosion protection", J. Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engrng., 118, 62-74. (pdf)

  30. Dalrymple, R. A. and Kirby, J. T., 1992, "Angular spectrum modelling of water waves", CRC Reviews in Aquatic Sciences, 6, 383-404.

  31. Kirby, J. T., 1993, "A note on Bragg scattering of surface waves by sinusoidal bars", Physics of Fluids A, 5, 380-386.
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  32. Kirby, J.T. and Lee, C., 1993, "Short waves in a rotating, shallow tank with bathymetry: a model equation in the mild-slope approximation", SIAM J. Appl. Math., 53, 1381-1400.
    (pdf)

  33. Mase, H. and Kirby, J. T., 1993, ``Hybrid model for nonlinear transformation of random waves'', Trans. Jap. Soc. Civ. Engrs., No. 479-25, 91-100. (in Japanese)

  34. Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A. and Kaku, H., 1994, "Parabolic approximations for water waves in conformal coordinate systems", Coastal Engineering, 23, 185-213.

  35. Ting, F. C. K. and Kirby, J. T., 1994, ``Observations of undertow and turbulence in a laboratory surfzone'', Coastal Engineering, 24, 51-80.

  36. Dalrymple, R. A., Kirby, J. T. and Martin, P. A., 1994, ``Spectral methods for forward-propagating water waves in conformally-mapped channels'', Applied Ocean Research, 16, 249-266.

  37. Lee, C. H. and Kirby. J. T., 1994, ``Analytical comparison of time-dependent mild-slope equations'', Journal of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 6, 389-396.

  38. Ting, F. C.-K. and Kirby, J. T., 1995, ``Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a strong plunging breaker'', Coastal Engineering, 24, 177-204.
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  39. Wei, G., Kirby, J. T., Grilli, S. T. and Subramanya, R., 1995, "A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. I. Highly nonlinear, unsteady waves", Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 294, 71-92.
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  40. Kaihatu, J. M. and Kirby, J. T., 1995, "Nonlinear transformation of waves in finite water depth", Physics of Fluids, 7,, 1903-1914.
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  41. Wei, G. and Kirby, J. T., 1995, "A time-dependent numerical code for extended Boussinesq equations", Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 121, 251-261.
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  42. Ting, F. C. K. and Kirby, J. T., 1996, "Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a spilling breaker'', Coastal Engineering, 27, 131-160.
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  43. Walker, C. A., Kirby, J. T. and Dentel, S. K., 1996, "The streaming current detector: a quantitative model", Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 182, 71-81.
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  44. Chajes, M. J., Finch, W. W. and Kirby, J. T., 1996, "Dynamic analysis of a 10-story reinforced concrete building using a continuum model", Computers and Structures, 58, 487-498.
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  45. Chajes, M. J., Zhang, L. and Kirby, J. T., 1996, "Dynamic analysis of tall building using reduced-order continuum model", Journal of Structural Engineering, 122, 1284-1291.
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  46. Özkan-Haller, H. T. and Kirby, J. T., 1997, "A Fourier-Chebyshev collocation method for the shallow water equations including shoreline runup", Applied Ocean Research., 19, 21-34.
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  47. Kaihatu, J. M. and Kirby, J. T., 1998, "Two-dimensional parabolic modeling of extended Boussinesq equations'', Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 124, 57-67.
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  48. Chawla, A., Özkan-Haller, H. T. and Kirby, J. T., 1998, "Spectral model for wave transformation over irregular bathymetry", Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 124, 189-198.
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  49. Wei, G., Kirby, J. T. and Sinha, A., 1999, "Generation of waves in Boussinesq models using a source function method", Coastal Engineering, 36, 271-299.
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  50. Gobbi, M. F. and Kirby, J. T., 1999, "Wave evolution over submerged sills: Tests of a high-order Boussinesq model", Coastal Engineering, 37, 57-96, and erratum, 40, 277, 2000.
    (pdf-paper) (pdf-erratum)

  51. Chen, Q., Dalrymple, R. A., Kirby, J. T., Kennedy, A. and Haller, M. C., 1999, "Boussinesq modeling of a rip current system", Journal of Geophysical Research, 104, 20,617 -20,637.
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  52. Özkan-Haller, H. T. and Kirby, J. T., 1999, "Nonlinear evolution of shear instabilities of the longshore current: A comparison of observations and computations", Journal of Geophysical Research, 104, 25,953 - 25,984.
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  53. Kennedy, A. B, Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., and Dalrymple, R. A., 2000, "Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking and runup. I: One dimension", Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 126, 39-47.
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  54. Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A., Kennedy, A. B. and Chawla, A., 2000, "Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking and runup. II: Two horizontal dimensions", Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 126, 48-56.
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  55. Gobbi, M. F., Kirby, J. T. and Wei, G., 2000, "A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. II. Extension to O(kh^4)", Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 405, 181-210.
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  56. Chawla, A. and Kirby, J. T., 2000, "A source function method for generation of waves on currents in Boussinesq models", Applied Ocean Research, 22, 75-83.
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  57. Kennedy, A. B., Dalrymple, R. A., Kirby, J. T. and Chen, Q., 2000, "Determination of inverse depths using direct Boussinesq modelling", Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 126, 206-214.
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  58. Svendsen, I. A., Veeramony, J., Bakunin, J. and Kirby, J. T., 2000, "The flow in weak turbulent hydraulic jumps", Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 418, 25-57, 2000.
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  59. Kennedy, A. B., Kirby, J. T., Chen, Q. and Dalrymple, R. A., 2001, "Boussinesq-type equations with improved nonlinear behaviour", Wave Motion, 33, 225-243.
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  60. Shi, F., Dalrymple, R. A., Kirby, J. T., Chen, Q. and Kennedy, A., 2001, "A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model in generalized curvilinear coordinates", Coastal Engineering, 42, 337-358.
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  61. Kennedy, A. B., Kirby, J. T. and Gobbi, M. F., 2002, "Simplified higher order Boussinesq equations. 1: Linear considerations", Coastal Engineering, 44, 205-229.
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  62. Chawla, A. and Kirby, J. T., 2002, "Monochromatic and random wave breaking at blocking points", Journal of Geophysical Research, 107(C7), 10.1029/2001JC001042.
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  63. Misra, S. K., Kennedy, A. B. and Kirby, J. T., 2003, "An approach to determining nearshore bathymetry using remotely sensed ocean surface dynamics", Coastal Engineering, 47, 265-293.
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  64. Shi, F., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A. and Chen, Q., 2003, "Wave simulations in Ponce de Leon Inlet using a Boussinesq model", Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 129, 124-135.
    (pdf)

  65. Kennedy, A.B., and Kirby, J.T., 2003, "An unsteady wave driver for narrow-banded waves: modeling nearshore circulation driven by wave groups", Coastal Engrng., 48, 257-275.
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  66. Shi, F., Svendsen, I. A., Kirby, J. T. and Smith, J. M., 2003, "A curvilinear version of a quasi-3D nearshore circulation model", Coastal Engineering, 49, 99-124.
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  67. Watts, P., Grilli, S. T., Kirby, J. T., Fryer, G. J. and Tappin, D. R., 2003, "Landslide tsunami case studies using a Boussinesq model and a fully nonlinear tsunami generation model", Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences,3, 391-402, 2003.
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  68. Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A., Shi, F. and Thornton, E. B., 2003, "Boussinesq modeling of longshore currents", Journal of Geophysical Research, 108(C11), 3362, doi:10.1029/2002JC001308.
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  69. Day, S. J., Watts, P., Grilli, S. T. and Kirby, J. T., 2005, "Mechanical models of the 1975 Kalapana, Hawaii earthquake and tsunami", Marine Geology, 215, 59-92.
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  70. Thomas, M., Misra, S., Kambhamettu, C. and Kirby, J. T., 2005, "A robust motion estimation algorithm for PIV", Measurement Science and Technology, 16, 865-877.
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  71. Shi, F. and Kirby, J. T., 2005, "Curvilinear parabolic approximation for surface wave transformation with wave-current interaction", J. Computational Physics, 204, 562-586.
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  72. Misra, S. K., Thomas, M., Kambhamettu, C., Kirby, J. T., Veron, F. and Brocchini, M., 2006, "Estimation of complex air-water interfaces from PIV images'', Experiments in Fluids, 40, 764-775, doi 10.1007/s00348-006-0113-1.
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  73. Terrile, E., Briganti, R., Brocchini, M. and Kirby, J. T., 2006, "Topographically-induced enstrophy production/dissipation in coastal models", Physics of Fluids, 18(12), 126603.
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  74. Kaihatu, J. M., Veeramony, J., Edwards, K. L. and Kirby, J. T., 2007, "Asymptotic behavior of frequency and wavenumber spectra of nearshore shoaling and breaking waves", J. Geophys. Res., 112, C06016, doi:10.1029/2006JC003817.
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  75. Ioualalen, M., J. A. Asavanant, N. Kaewbanjak, N., Grilli, S. T., Kirby, J. T. and Watts, P., 2007, "Modeling of the 26th December 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami: Case study of impact in Thailand", J. Geophys. Res., 112, C07024, doi:10.1029/2006JC003850.
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  76. Grilli, S. T., Ioualalen, M., Asavanant, J., Shi, F., Kirby, J. T. and Watts, P., 2007, ``Source constraints and model simulation of the December 26, 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami'', J. Waterway, Port, Coast. and Ocean Engrng., 133, 414-428.
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  77. Shi, F., Kirby, J. T. and Hanes, D. M., 2007, "An efficient mode-splitting method for a curvilinear nearshore circulation model", Coastal Engineering, 54, 811-824.
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  78. Long, W., Kirby, J. T. and Shao, Z., 2008, "A numerical scheme for morphological bed level calculations", Coastal Engineering, 55, 167-180.
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  79. Misra, S. K., Kirby, J. T., Brocchini, M., Veron, F., Thomas, M. and Kambhamettu, C., 2008, "The mean and turbulent flow structure of a weak hydraulic jump Physics of Fluids, 20, 035106.
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  80. Terrile, E., Brocchini, M., Christensen, K. H. and Kirby, J. T., 2008, "Dispersive effects on wave-current interaction and vorticity transport in nearshore flows", Physics of Fluids, 20, 036602.
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  81. Waythomas, C. F., Watts, P., Shi, F. and Kirby, J. T., 2009 ``Pacific basin tsunami hazards associate with mass flows in the Aleutian Arc of Alaska'', Quaternary Science Reviews, 28, 1006-1019.
    (pdf)

Journal Papers under review

  1. Debsarma, S., Das, K. P. and Kirby, J. T., 2009, ``Fully nonlinear higher order model equations for long internal waves in a two fluid system'', submitted to J. Fluid Mech., January, revised and resubmitted, September, under revision.

  2. Shi, F., Kirby, J. T. and Hanes, D. M., 2009, ``Alongshore currents induced by focused waves'', submitted to J. Fluid Mech., March, under revision.

  3. Hampson, R., MacMahan, J. and Kirby, J. T., 2009, ``A low-cost hydrographic surveying system'', submitted to J. Coastal Res, August, under revision.

  4. Zhang, W.-Z., Shi, F., Hong, H.-S., Shang, S.-P., Kirby, J. T., 2009, ``Tide-surge interaction intensified by the Taiwan Strait'', submitted to J. Geophys. Res., August, under revision.

  5. Shi, F., Hanes, D. M., Kirby, J. T., Erikson, L., Barnard, P. and Eshleman, J., 2009, ``Pressure gradient-dominated nearshore circulation on a beach influenced by an adjacent large inlet'', submitted to J. Geophys. Res., July.

  6. Chawla, A. and Kirby, J. T., 2009, "Propagation of weakly non-linear, narrow-banded waves against strong currents", submitted to Physics of Fluids, September.

  7. Shi, F., Kirby, J. T. and Ma, G., 2009, "Modeling of air bubbles induced by breaking waves using a prescribed air entrainment formulation", in preparation.

  8. Kirby, J. T., Pophet, N., Shi, F. and Grilli, S. T., 2009, ``Sensitivity analysis of trans-oceanic tsunami propagation to dispersive and Coriolis effects'', in preparation for Pure and Applied Geophysics special issue on tsunamis.

  9. Misra, S. K., Kirby, J. T., Veron, F. and Brocchini, M., 2009, ``Coherent structures in a weak hydraulic jump'', in preparation.

Nonrefereed Journal and Magazine Articles

  1. Dalrymple, R. A., Grilli, S. T. and Kirby, J. T., 2006, "Tsunamis and challenges for accurate modeling", Oceanography, 19 (1), 142-151.

Published Discussions and Reviews

  1. Kirby, J.T. and Dalrymple, R.A., 1984, "discussion of `Surfzone currents' by D.R. Basco" Coastal Engineering, 8, 387-392.

  2. Kirby, J. T., 1986, "Comments on `The effects of a jetlike current on gravity waves in shallow water' ", Journal of Physical Oceanography, 16, 395-397.
    (pdf)

  3. Kirby, J. T., 1988, "Discussion of `Refraction-diffraction model for linear water waves' by B. A. Ebersole", Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 114, 101-103.

  4. Kirby, J. T., 1989, review of Remote Sensing of Shelf Sea Hydrodynamics by J. C. J. Nihoul (ed), Photogrammetric Engineering and Remote Sensing, 55, 565-566.

  5. Kirby, J. T., 1992, "Discussion of `Linear surface waves over rotating fluids' by T.-K. Tsay", Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 118, 331-333.
    (pdf)

  6. Kirby, J. T., 1993, "Discussion of `Shoreline profile of Stokes-mode edge waves' by H. H. Yeh", Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 119, 228-229.
    (pdf)

  7. Kirby, J. T., 1998, "Discussion of `Note on a nonlinearity parameter of surface waves' by S. Beji", Coastal Engineering, 34, 163-168.
    (pdf)

  8. Shi, F. and Kirby, J. T., 2008, "Discussion of 'Wave setup and setdown generated by obliquely incident waves' by T.-W. Hsu et al, Coastal Engrng, 53, 865-877, 2006.", Coastal Engrng., 55, 1247-1249.

Conference Proceedings

  1. Brocard, D. N. and Kirby, J. T., ``Farfield model for waste heat discharge in the coastal zone'', Proc. 2nd Annual Conf. on Waste Heat Management and Utilization, Miami, December, 1978.

  2. Kirby, J. T., ``Finite difference modelling of nearshore circulation'', in Nearshore Current Model Workshop Summary, J. M. Hubertz (ed), U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, MP CERC-83-3, September, 1983.

  3. Kirby, J. T. and Dalrymple, R. A., ``Propagation of weakly nonlinear surface waves in the presence of varying depth and currents'', Proc. 20th Congress Int. Assoc. Hydraulic Research 7, 198-202, Moscow, September, 1983.

  4. Dalrymple, R. A., Kirby, J. T. and Mann, D. W., 1984, "Wave propagation in the vicinity of islands", Proc. 16th Offshore Technology Conference, Houston, 249-253, May.

  5. Kirby, J. T., Liu, P. L.-F., Yoon, S. B. and Dalrymple, R. A., 1984, "Combined refraction-diffraction of nonlinear shallow water waves", Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Houston, 999-1015, September.

  6. Kirby, J. T., 1986, "Large-angle parabolic equation methods", Proceedings of the 20th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Taipei, November.

  7. Vengayil, P. and Kirby, J. T., 1986, "Shoaling and reflection of nonlinear waves", Proceedings of the 20th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Taipei, November.

  8. Dalrymple, R. A., Kirby, J. T. and Seli, D. J., 1986, "Wave trapping by breakwaters", Proceedings of the 20th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Taipei, November.

  9. Kirby, J. T., 1987, ``Effect of ambient current on resonant reflection of surface water waves by sand bars'' Proc. Coastal Hydrodynamics'87, Newark, June.

  10. Kirby, J. T., Philip, R. and Vengayil, P., 1988, "One-dimensional and weakly two-dimensional waves in varying channels: numerical examples", in Nonlinear Water Waves, K. Horikawa and H. Maruo (eds), 357-364, Springer, 1988. (Proceedings of the IUTAM Symposium on Nonlinear Water Waves, Tokyo, August 1987).

  11. Kirby, J. T., 1988, "Weakly nonlinear long waves in varying channels", in Developments in Theoretical and Applied Mechanics, Vol. 14, Wang, S.Y. et al, (eds), University of Mississippi, 111 - 118, April 1988. (Proc. 14th South Eastern Conference on Theoretical and Applied Mechanics)

  12. Kirby, J. T. and Anton, J. R., 1990, "Bragg reflection of waves by artificial bars'', Proceedings of the 22nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Delft, July 2-6, 757-768.

  13. Kirby, J. T., 1990, "Modelling shoaling directional wave spectra in shallow water", Proceedings of the 22nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Delft, July 2-6, 109-122.

  14. Bailard, J. A., DeVries, J., Kirby, J. T. and Guza, R. T., 1990, "Bragg reflection breakwater: a new shore protection method?", Proc. 22nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Delft, July 2-6, 1702-1715.

  15. Kirby, J. T. and Rasmussen, C., ``Numerical solutions for transient and nearly periodic waves in shallow water'', Proceedings of the ASCE Engineering Mechanics Specialty Conference: Mechanics Computing in the 1990's and Beyond, Columbus, May, 328-332, 1991.

  16. Mase, H., Kirby, J. T. and Kuribayashi, K., ``Shoaling model of random waves - modified empirical KdV model'', Proc. 38th Jap. Conf. Coast. Engrng., 51-55, October 1991 (in Japanese).

  17. Kirby, J. T., Kaihatu, J. M. and Mase, H., ``Shoaling and breaking random waves: spectral approach'', Proc. 9th Conf. Engineering Mechanics, College Station, May 24-27, p. 71-74, 1992.

  18. Kirby, J. T., Chajes, M. J. and Melby, J. A., ``Wavelet transform analysis of several transient or nonstationary phenomena in engineering mechanics'', Proc. 9th Conf. Engineering Mechanics, College Station, May 24-27, p. 204-207, 1992.

  19. Kirby, J. T., ``Water waves in variable depth under continuous sea ice'', Proc. 2nd Intl. Offsh. and Polar Engrng. Conf., 70-76, San Francisco, June 14-19, 1992.

  20. Kaihatu, J. M. and Kirby, J. T., ``Spectral evolution and dissipation in waves in finite water depth'', Proc. 23d Intl. Conf. Coastal Engrng., Venice, 364-377, October 1992.

  21. Kirby, J. T., Lee, C. and Rasmussen, C., 1992, ``Time-dependent solutions of the mild-slope wave equation'', Proc. 23d Intl. Conf. Coastal Engrng., Venice, 391-404, October.

  22. Mase, H. and Kirby, J. T., 1992, ``Modified frequency domain KdV equation for random wave shoaling'', Proc. 23d Intl. Conf. Coastal Engrng., Venice, 474-487, October.
    (pdf file)

  23. Kirby, J. T. and Dalrymple, R. A., 1993, ``Parabolic and angular spectrum wave models in conformally-mapped coordinate systems'', Advances in Hydro-Science and Engineering, S. S-Y. Wang (ed), 1563-1570, Washington, June.

  24. Özkan, H. T. and Kirby, J. T., ``Evolution of breaking directional spectral waves in the nearshore zone'', Proc. Waves '93, ASCE, 849-863, New Orleans, July 25-28, 1993.

  25. Kirby, J. T. and Wei, G., ``Derivation and properties of a fully nonlinear, extended Boussinesq model'', Proc. IAHR Symposium: Waves - Phys. and Num. Model., Vancouver, 386-395, August 21-24, 1994.

  26. Kaihatu, J. M. and Kirby, J. T., ``Angular spectrum modelling of extended Boussinesq equations'', Proc. IAHR Symposium: Waves - Phys. and Num. Model., Vancouver, 514-523, August 21-24, 1994.

  27. Lee, C. and Kirby, J. T., ``A time-dependent mild-slope equation model including wave breaking'', Proc. IAHR Symposium: Waves - Phys. and Num. Model., Vancouver, 614-623, August 21-24, 1994.

  28. Wei, G. and Kirby, J. T., ``A high-order time-dependent numerical model for the extended Boussinesq equations'', Proc. IAHR Symposium: Waves - Phys. and Num. Model., Vancouver, 544-553, August 21-24, 1994.

  29. Dalrymple, R. A. and Kirby, J. T., ``The propagation of water waves in channels'', Proc. IAHR Symposium: Waves - Phys. and Num. Model., Vancouver, 570-579, August 21-24, 1994.

  30. Grilli, S. T., Subramanya, R., Kirby, J. T. and Wei, G., ``Comparison of modified Boussinesq and fully nonlinear potential models for shoaling solitary waves'', Proc. IAHR Symposium: Waves - Phys. and Num. Model., Vancouver, 524-533, August 21-24, 1994.

  31. Dalrymple, R. A. and Kirby, J. T., ``Waves in an annular entrance channel'', Proceedings of the 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Kobe, October 1994.

  32. Kirby, J. T., Bakunin, J. and Huq, P., ``Turbulence measurements in low Froude number hydraulic jumps'', Proc. 10th ASCE Engineering Mechanics Specialty Conference, Boulder, May 1995.

  33. Wei, G., Kirby, J. T. and Mase, H., ``Implementation of eddy viscosity models in a time-domain Boussinesq wave model'', Proc. 10th ASCE Engineering Mechanics Specialty Conference, Boulder, May 1995.

  34. Özkan, H. T. and Kirby, J. T., ``Finite amplitude shear wave instabilities'', Proceedings Coastal Dynamics '95, Gdansk, September 1995.

  35. Chawla, A., Özkan-Haller, H. T. and Kirby, J. T., ``Experimental study of breaking waves over a shoal'', Proc. 25th Intl. Conf. Coast. Engrng., Orlando, 2-15, 1996.

  36. Kaihatu, J. M. and Kirby, J. T., 1996, "Effects of mode truncation and dissipation in predictions of higher order statistics", Proc. 25th Intl. Conf. Coast. Engrng., Orlando, 123-136.
    (ps)

  37. Gobbi, M. F. and Kirby, J. T., 1996, ``A fourth order Boussinesq-type wave model'', Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Orlando, 1116-1129.

  38. Özkan-Haller, H. T. and Kirby, J. T., 1996, ``Numerical study of low frequency surf zone motions'', Proc. 25th Intl. Conf. Coast. Engrng., Orlando, 1361-1374.

  39. Kirby, J. T. and Kaihatu, J. M., 1996, ``Structure of frequency domain models for random wave breaking'', Proc. 25th Intl. Conf. Coast. Engrng., Orlando, 1144-1155.

  40. Özkan-Haller, H. T. and Kirby, J. T., ``Shear instabilities of longshore currents: Flow characteristics and momentum mixing during SuperDuck'', Proceedings Coastal Dynamics '97, Plymouth, June 1997.

  41. Chawla, A. and Kirby, J. T., ``Experimental study of breaking waves on a blocking current'', Proceedings of the 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Copenhagen, June 22-26, 759-772, 1998.

  42. Dalrymple, R. A., Kennedy, A., Kirby, J. T. and Chen, Q., ``Determining depth from remotely sensed images'', Proceedings of the 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Copenhagen, June 22-26, 2395-2408, 1998.

  43. Gobbi, M. F., Kennedy, A. B. and Kirby, J. T., ``A comparison of higher-order Boussinesq and local polynomial approximation models'', Proceedings of the 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Copenhagen, June 22-26, 631-644, 1998.

  44. Kirby, J. T., Putrevu, U. and Özkan-Haller, H. T., "Evolution equations for edge waves and shear waves on longshore uniform beaches", Proceedings of the 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Copenhagen, June 22-26, 203-216, 1998.

  45. Putrevu, U., Kirby, J. T., Oltman-Shay, J. and Özkan-Haller, H. T., 1998, "On the viscous destabilization of longshore currents", Proceedings of the 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Copenhagen, June 22-26, 217-229.
    (pdf)

  46. Chen, Q., Dalrymple, R. A., Kirby, J. T., Kennedy, A. B. and Haller, M. C., 1999, "Modelling of rip currents", Proceedings of the International Workshop on Natural Disaster by Storm Waves and Their Reproduction in Experimental Basin, Kyoto, December, 117-129.

  47. Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A., Kennedy, A. B., Thornton, E. B. and Shi, F., 2000, "Boussinesq modeling of waves and longshore currents under field conditions", Proceedings of the 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Sydney, July 16-21, 651-663.

  48. Gobbi, M. F., Kirby, J. T. and Kennedy, A. B., 2000, "On the consistency of Boussinesq models and their ability to predict vertical vorticity fields", Proceedings of the 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Sydney, July 16-21, 1321-1334.

  49. Hommel, L., Shi, F., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A. and Chen, Q., 2000, "Modelling of a wave-induced vortex near a breakwater", Proceedings of the 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Sydney, July 16-21, 2318-2330.

  50. Kennedy, A. B., Kirby, J. T. and Gobbi, M. F., 2000, ``Improved performance in Boussinesq-type equations'', Proc. 27th Intl. Conf. Coastal Engrng., ASCE, Sydney, July 16-21, 678-691.

  51. Misra, S., Kennedy, A. B., Kirby, J. T. and Dalrymple, R. A., 2000, ``Determining water depth from surface images using Boussinesq equations'', Proc. 27th Intl. Conf. Coastal Engrng., ASCE, Sydney, July 16-21, 1197-1210.

  52. Rego, V. S., Kirby, J. T. and Thompson, D., 2001, ``Boussinesq waves on flows with arbitrary vorticity'', Proceedings of the 4th International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, Waves'01, ASCE, San Francisco, September 2-6, 904-913.
    (pdf)

  53. Shi, F., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A. and Chen, Q., 2001 ``A curvilinear Boussinesq model and its application'', Proceedings of the 4th International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, Waves'01, ASCE, San Francisco, September 2-6, 844-853, 2001.
    (pdf)

  54. Watts, P., Grilli, S. T. and Kirby, J. T., Fryer, G. J. and Tappin, D. R., 2002, "Simulation of landslide tsunami case studies using a Boussinesq model coupled to a fully nonlinear tsunami source model", Proceedings 27th General Assembly of the European Geophysical Society, Nice, April 21-26, 2002, in press.

  55. Kaihatu, J. M., Shi, F., Kirby, J. T. and Svendsen, I. A., 2002, ``Incorporation of random wave effects into a quasi-3D nearshore circulation model'', Proceedings of the 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Cardiff, July 7-12, 747-759.

  56. Kennedy, A. B., Kirby, J. T. and Shi, F., 2002, ``Computing unsteady wave refraction and diffraction in the nearshore'', Proceedings of the 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Cardiff, July 7-12, 426-438.

  57. Kirby, J. T. and Chen, Q., 2002, ``Examining the low frequency predictions of a Boussinesq wave model'', Proceedings of the 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Cardiff, July 7-12, 1075-1087.

  58. Misra, S., Kirby, J. T. and Svendsen, I. A., 2002, ``Simulating non-hydrostatic free surface flows'', Proceedings of the 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Cardiff, July 7-12, 849-858.

  59. Shi, F., Svendsen, I. A., Kirby, J. T. and Smith, J. M., 2002, ``Curvilinear modeling of nearshore circulations at Gray's Harbor'', Proceedings of the 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Cardiff, July 7-12, 810-822.

  60. Long, W. and Kirby, J. T., 2003, "Cross-shore sediment transport model based on the Boussinesq equations and an improved Bagnold formula", Proc. Coastal Sediments '03, Clearwater Beach, May 17-22.

  61. Kirby, J. T., Chen, Q., Noyes, T. J., Elgar, S. and Guza, R. T., 2003, "Evaluating the low frequency predictions of a Boussinesq wave model: Field cases", Proc. ISOPE-2003, Honolulu, May 25-30.

  62. Kennedy, A. B., Shi, F. and Kirby, J. T., 2003, "Time-dependent wave forcing in computational nearshore hydrodynamics'', to appear in Proc. Second M.I.T. Conference on Computational Fluid and Solid Mechanics, Cambridge, June 17-20.

  63. Zhao, Q., Misra, S., Svendsen, I. A. and Kirby, J. T., 2004, "Numerical study of a turbulent hydraulic jump", {\em Proc. 17th Engrng. Mech. Div. Conf.}, June, Newark.

  64. Long, W., Hsu, T.-J. and Kirby, J. T., 2004, "Modeling cross-shore sediment transport processes with a time domain Boussinesq model", Proc. 29th Int. Conf. Coastal Engrng., Lisbon, September, 1874-1886.

  65. Misra, S. K., Kirby, J. T., Brocchini, M., Thomas, M., Veron, F. and Kambhamettu, C., 2004, ``Extra strain rates in spilling breaking waves'', Proc. 29th Int. Conf. Coastal Engrng., Lisbon, September, 370-378.

  66. Osler, M. S., Svendsen, I. A. and Kirby, J. T., 2004, ``Laboratory investigation of nearshore turbulence'', presented at 29th Int. Conf. Coastal Engrng., Lisbon, September, 1393-1403.

  67. Ota, T., Kobayashi, N. and Kirby, J. T., 2004,``Wave and current interactions with vegetation'', Proc. 29th Int. Conf. Coastal Engrng., Lisbon, September, 508-520.

  68. Shi, F., Zhao, Q., Kirby, J. T., Lee, D. S. and Seo, S. N., 2004, ``Modeling wave interactions with complex coastal structures using an enhanced VOF model'', Proc. 29th Int. Conf. Coastal Engrng., Lisbon, September, 581-593.

  69. Zou, Z., Kirby, J. T. and Shi, F., 2004, ``2D Higher order Boussinesq equations for waves in flows with vorticity'', Proc. 29th Int. Conf. Coastal Engrng., Lisbon, September, 106-118.

  70. Misra, S., Kirby, J. T., Brocchini, M., Veron, F. and Thomas, M., ``Coherent turbulent structures in a quasi-steady spilling breaker'', Proc. Waves'05, Madrid, July 3-7, 2005.
    (pdf)

  71. Watts, P., Ioualalen, M., Grilli, S. T., Kirby, J. T. and Shi, F. ``Numerical simulations of the December 26, 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami using a higher-order Boussinesq model'', Proc. Waves'05, Madrid, July 3-7 2005, Paper 221.
    (pdf)

  72. Zhao, Q. and Kirby, J. T., 2005, "Bagnold formula revisited: Incorporating pressure gradient into energetics models", Proc. Waves'05, Madrid, July 3-7.
    (pdf)

  73. Thomas, M., Misra, S. K., Kambhamettu, C. and Kirby, J. T., 2006, "Dynamic open contours using particle swarm optimization with application to fluid interface extraction", Computer Vision - ACCV 2006, Pt. 1. Lecture Notes in Computer Science 3851, 643-652.
    (pdf)

  74. Briganti, R., Kirby, J. T., Shi, F., Brocchini, M., Chen, Q. and Lipphardt, B. L., 2006, "Wave-averaged and wave-resolving numerical modeling of vorticity transport in the nearshore region: the SANDYDUCK case study", Proc. 30th Int. Conf. Coastal Engrng., San Diego, September, 1066-1078.
    (pdf)

  75. Kirby, J. T., Ozkan-Haller, H. T. and Haller, M. C., 2006, "Seiching in a large wave flume", Proc. 30th Int. Conf. Coastal Engrng., San Diego, September, 1159-1171.
    (pdf)

  76. Long, W., Kirby, J. T. and Hsu, T.-J., 2006, "Cross shore sandbar migration predicted by a time domain Boussinesq model incorporating undertow", 30th Int. Conf. Coastal Engrng., San Diego, September, 2655-2667.
    (pdf)

  77. Misra, S. K., Brocchini, M. and Kirby, J. T., 2006, "Turbulent interfacial boundary conditions for spilling breaking waves", Proc. 30th Int. Conf. Coastal Engrng., San Diego, September, 214-226.
    (pdf)

  78. Shi, F., Kirby, J. T. and Haas, K., 2006, "Quasi-3D nearshore circulation equations: a CL-vortex force formulation", Proc. 30th Int. Conf. Coastal Engrng., San Diego, September, 1028-1039.
    (pdf)

  79. Teran Cobo, P., Kirby, J. T., Haller, M. C., Ozkan-Haller, H. T. and Magalen, J., 2006, "Model simulations of bar evolution on a large-scale laboratory beach", Proc. 30th Int. Conf. Coastal Engrng., San Diego, September, 2566-2578.
    (pdf)

  80. Terrile, E., Briganti, R., Brocchini, M. and Kirby, J. T., 2006, "Produzione/dissipazione di enstrofia e vorticita' nei modelli di circolazione costiera." Atti del XXX Convegno di Idraulica e Costruzioni Idrauliche, CD-ROM, Paper N. 86, 7pp.
    (pdf)

  81. Ioualalen, M., Asavanant, J., Kaewbanjak, N., Grilli, S. T. and Kirby, J. T., 2007, ``How numerical simulations may contribute to tsunami risk preparedness; The 26th December 2004 Indian Ocean event and the Thailand case study'', Proc. 2nd Int. Conf. Asian Simulation and Modeling ASIMMOD '07, Chiang Mai, Thailand, Jan 9-11, Keynote 2.
    (pdf)

  82. Chen Y., Shi F., Qin, W. and Kirby J. T., 2007, "Coupling of meteorology, ocean and nearshore models for predicting coastal inundation along Delaware's coast", Proc. 10th Int. Conf. Estuarine and Coastal Modeling, Kingston, http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/40990(324)10.

  83. Guannel, G., H. T. Ozkan-Haller, M.C. Haller, and J.T. Kirby, 2007, ``Influence of velocity moments on sand bar movement during CROSSTEX'', Proc. Coastal Sediments '07, ASCE, 28-41.

  84. Asavanant, J., Ioualalen, M., Kaewbanjak, N., Grilli, S., Watts, P., Kirby, J. and Shi, F., 2008, "Numerical simulation of the December 26, 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami'', in Modeling, simulation and optimization of complex processes, Bock, H. G., Kostina, E., Phu, H. X. and Rannacher, R. (eds), Proc. 3d Int. Conf. on High Performance Scientific Computing, Hanoi, March 6-10, 2006, 59-68.
    (pdf)

  85. Shi, F., Kirby, J. T., Haller, M. C. and Catalan, P., 2008, "Modeling of surfzone bubbles using a multiphase VOF model", Proc. 31st Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, Hamburg, Aug. 31 - September 5, 157-169.
    (pdf)

  86. Misra, S. K., Driscoll, A. M., Kirby, J. T., Cornett, A., Lomonaco, P., Sayao, O. and Yavary, M., 2008, "Surface gravity wave interactions with deep-draft navigation channels - physical and numerical modeling case studies", Proc. 31st Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, Hamburg, August 31 - September 5, 2786-2798.
    (pdf)

  87. Kirby, J. T., Pophet, N., Shi, F. and Grilli, S. T., 2009, "Basin scale tsunami propagation modeling using Boussinesq models: Parallel implementation in spherical coordinates", Proc. WCCE-ECCE-TCCE Joint Conference on Earthquake and Tsunami , Istanbul, June 22-24, paper 100 (published on CD).
    (pdf)

  88. Shi, F., Ma, G. and Kirby, J. T., 2010, "Numerical modeling of optical properties inside the surfzone", submitted for 32nd Int. Conf. Coastal Engrng., Shanghai.

  89. Zhao, Q., Kirby, J. T. and Puleo, J. A., 2010, "Modeling on-shore sediment transport using energetics models", submitted for 32nd Int. Conf. Coastal Engrng., Shanghai.

Published Conference Abstracts and other Conference Presentations

  1. Kirby, J. T., 1987, "Reflection of long nonlinear waves by nearshore bars", AGU Fall Meeting, San Francisco, Dec. 1987. Abstract published in EOS, Transactions AGU, 68, 1310.

  2. Kirby, J. T. and Kaihatu, J. M., 1990, ``Advances in modeling nearshore wave climate using spectral (Boussinesq) models'', presented at Advances in Coastal Engineering, Newark, November.

  3. Kirby, J. T., Kaihatu, J. M., Bowen, G. D. and Smith, J. M., 1990, ``Application of spectral Boussinesq models to various problems in nearshore wave evolution'', presented at the American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco, December 3-7, 1990. Abstract published in EOS, Transactions AGU, 71, 1369.

  4. Kaihatu, J. M. and Kirby, J. T., 1991, ``Frequency-domain water wave evolution in finite depth'', presented at the American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, December. Abstract published in EOS, Transactions AGU, 72, Fall Meeting Suppl., 253, 1991.

  5. Kaihatu, J. M. and Kirby, J. T., 1992, ``Evolution and interaction of directional finite amplitude waves in shallow water'', presented at the AGU Fall Meeting, San Francisco. Abstract published in EOS, Transactions AGU, 73(43), Suppl., 247, 1992.

  6. Kaihatu, J. M., Wei, G. and Kirby, J. T., ``Angular spectrum and time domain solutions of extended Boussinesq-type equations'', presented ( with published abstract) at MEET'N'93, 1st SES-ASME-ASCE Joint Meeting, Charlottesville, VA, June 6-9, 1993.

  7. Chajes, M. J., Kirby, J. T., Yang, C. Y. and Finch, W. W., ``Validating continuum analyses of buildings subjected to dynamic loads'', Abstracts, 2nd U. S. National Congress on Computational Mechanics, 237, Washington, August 16-18, 1993.

  8. Kirby, J. T., Wei, G. and Kaihatu, J. M., ``Time and frequency domain characteristics of wave energy dissipation in numerically modelled breaking waves'', presented at the American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco, December 6-10, 1993. Abstract published in EOS, Transactions AGU, 74(43) Suppl. 333-334, 1993.

  9. Özkan, H. T. and Kirby, J. T., ``Numerical study of finite amplitude shear wave instabilities'', presented at the American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco, December 1994. Abstract published in EOS, Transactions AGU, Fall Meeting Supplement, p. 322. 1994.

  10. Wei, G. and Kirby, J. T., 1995, ``A coastal processes model based on time-domain Boussinesq equations'', presented at Coastal Dynamics '95, Gdansk, September.

  11. Cox, M. O., Howd, P. A. and Kirby, J. T., 1995, ``Shoreface geological control of nearshore wave energy'', presented at Geological Society of America meeting.

  12. Cox, M. O., Howd, P. A. and Kirby, J. T. ``Application of a weakly non-linear wave refraction/diffraction model to the Wimble Shoals, NC region'', presented at the American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, December 11-15, 1995. Abstract published in EOS, Transactions AGU, Fall Meeting Supplement, F297, 1995.

  13. Özkan, H. T. and Kirby, J. T., ``Numerical study of finite amplitude shear waves'', presented at the American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, December 11-15, 1995. Abstract published in EOS, Transactions AGU, Fall Meeting Supplement, F287, 1995.

  14. Kirby, J. T., Gobbi, M. F. and Wei, G., ``Kinematics and dynamics of waves in intermediate depth predicted by extended Boussinesq equations'', presented at the American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, December 11-15, 1995. Abstract published in EOS, Transactions AGU, Fall Meeting Supplement, F297, 1995.

  15. Putrevu, U., Oltman-Shay, J., Kirby, J. T. and Wei, G., ``Radiation stresses in the Boussinesq approximation. Part 1: Intermediate depth'', presented at the American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting , December 11-15, 1995. Abstract published in EOS, Transactions AGU, Fall Meeting Supplement, F297, 1995.

  16. Oltman-Shay, J., Putrevu, U., Kirby, J. T. and Wei, G., ``Radiation stresses in the Boussinesq approximation. Part 2: Highly nonlinear waves'', presented at the American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, December 11-15, 1995. Abstract published in EOS, Transactions AGU, Fall Meeting Supplement, F297, 1995.

  17. Özkan-Haller, H. T. and Kirby, J. T., ``Shear instabilities of the longshore current during Superduck'', presented at the American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco, December 15-19, 1996. Abstract published in EOS, Transactions AGU, 77, F394, 1996.

  18. Svendsen, I. A., Veeramony, J., Kirby, J. T., ``Verification of Boussinesq model for breaking waves'', presented at the American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco, December 15-19, 1996. Abstract published in EOS, Transactions AGU, 77, F394, 1996.

  19. Kirby, J. T. and Putrevu, U., ``Nonlinear evolution of shear and edge waves on open coastal beaches'', presented at the American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco, December 8-12, 1997. Abstract published in EOS, Transactions AGU, 78, F345, 1997.

  20. Özkan-Haller, H. T., Kirby, J. T., Vidal, C., Medina, R. and Losada, I. J., ``Experimental investigation of the infragravity climate on an intertidal pocket beach'', presented at the American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco, December 8-12, 1997. Abstract published in EOS, Transactions AGU, 78, F345, 1997.

  21. Özkan-Haller, H. T. and Kirby, J. T., 1998, "Instabilities and nonlinear evolution of wave-induced longshore currents in the surfzone", poster presented at the Johns Hopkins Conference in Environmental Fluid Mechanics, April 2-4.

  22. Chen, Q, Dalrymple, R. A., Kirby, J. T. and Kennedy, A. B., 1998, "Boussinesq modelling of wave-induced nearshore circulation", poster presented at the Johns Hopkins Conference in Environmental Fluid Mechanics, April 2-4.

  23. Kirby, J. T., Putrevu, U. and Ozkan-Haller, H. T., 1998, "Nonlinear edge wave interactions on longshore-uniform beaches", EOS, Trans. AGU, 79, Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS11B-12.

  24. Chawla, A. and Kirby, J. T., 1998, "Wave blocking on opposing currents", EOS, Trans. AGU, 79, Fall Meeting Suppl., Abstract OS11B-15.

  25. Dalrymple, R. A., Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., Kennedy, A. and Haller, M. C., 1998, "Boussinesq modeling of rip currents", EOS, Trans. AGU, 79, Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS21C-39.

  26. Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A. and Kennedy, A. B., 1998, "Boussinesq modeling of wave fields at FRF, Duck, NC", EOS, Trans. AGU, 79, Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS71D-09.

  27. Kirby, J. T., 1999, "Beyond Boussinesq: Extended treatments of dispersion and nonlinearity in practical nearshore wave models", presented at the SIAM Annual Meeting, Atlanta, May 9-15.

  28. Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A., Kennedy, A. B., 1999, "Boussinesq modeling of longshore currents at FRF, Duck, NC", EOS, Trans. AGU, 80, Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS21C-07.

  29. Kennedy, A. B., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A. and Chen, Q., 1999, "Inference of coastal properties using a coupled video-Boussinesq system", EOS, Trans. AGU, 80, Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS31C-06.

  30. Kirby, J. T., 1999, "Nearshore community model development: A look ahead", EOS, Trans. AGU, 80, Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS21C-01 INVITED.

  31. Shi, F., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A., Chen, Q. and Zhen, F., 1999, "Wave simulations in Ponce de Leon inlet using a curvilinear Boussinesq model", EOS, Trans. AGU, 80, Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS12B-19.

  32. Kirby, J. T., 2000, "An overview of the NOPP nearshore community model project", presented at the Community Sediment Transport Modeling Workshop, USGS, Woods Hole, June 22-23.

  33. Gungordu, O. and Kirby, J. T., 2000, "Evolution of large amplitude bedforms in a flowing stream", EOS, Trans. AGU, 81 (48), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS72A-06.

  34. Kirby, J. T., Putrevu, U. and Ozkan-Haller, H. T., 2000, "Edge and shear wave interactions?", EOS, Trans. AGU, 81 (48), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS62F-05.

  35. Shi, F., Svendsen, I. A. and Kirby, J. T., 2000, "A curvilinear version of SHORECIRC", EOS, Trans. AGU, 81(48), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS52A-11.

  36. Kaihatu, J. M., Kirby, J. T. and Svendsen, I. A., 2001, "Incorporating random wave effects in a nearshore circulation model", EOS, Transactions AGU, 82(47), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS11D-07.

  37. Watts, P., Grilli, S. T. and Kirby, J. T., 2002, ``Coupling 3D tsunami generation with Boussinesq tsunami propagation'', presented at the 27th General Assembly of the European Geophysical Society, Nice, April 21-26. Geophysical Research Abstracts, 4, EGS 02-A-02601 NH8-MO2A-007.

  38. Watts, P., S. T. Grilli, J. T. Kirby, G. J. Fryer, D. Tappin, 2002, "Validation of TOPICS and case studies with GEOWAVE", presented at the Second Tsunami Symposium, the Tsunami Society, Honolulu, May 28-30, 2002.

  39. Watts, P., S. T. Grilli, J. T. Kirby, 2002, "Landslide tsunami case studies with GEOWAVE", presented at Local Tsunami Warning and Mitigation Workshop", Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy, Russia, September 10 - 15.

  40. Heitsenrether, R. M., Badiey, M. and Kirby, J. T., 2002, "Influence of fetch limited surface roughness on mid-to-high frequency acoustic propagation in shallow water'', submitted for Acoustical Society of America meeting, Cancun, Dec. 6-11.

  41. Kirby, J. T., 2002, "A review of the nearshore NOPP project", EOS, Trans. AGU, 83(47), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS52E-02.

  42. Kirby, J. T., Chen, Q., Noyes, J., Elgar, S., Guza, R. T., 2002, "Evaluation of Boussinesq model predictions of nearshore hydrodynamics", EOS, Trans. AGU, 83(47), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS62E-05.

  43. Shi, F., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A. and Chen, Q., 2002, "On nonlinear properties of waves predicted by a Boussinesq model", EOS, Trans. AGU, 83(47), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS62E-06.

  44. Watts, P., Grilli, S. T., Kirby, J. T., Fryer, G. J. and Tappin, D. R., 2002, "Landslide tsunami generation models: validation and case studies", EOS, Trans. AGU, 83(47), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS51A-0144.

  45. Shi, F., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A. and Svendsen, I. A., 2003, "Curvilinear modeling of coastal waves and currents", presented at Coastal Engineering Today, Gainesville, October 8-10.

  46. Kirby, J. T., Chen, Q., Noyes, J., Elgar, S. and Guza, R. T., 2003, "Modeling unsteady nearshore currents", presented at Coastal Engineering Today, Gainesville, October 8-10.

  47. Grilli, S. T., Watts, P. and Kirby, J. T., 2003, "Tsunami landslide source models as a tool for analysing complex case studies", EOS Trans. AGU, 84(46), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS31A-06.

  48. Enet, F., Grilli, S. T., Watts, P. and Kirby, J. T., 2003, "Modeling and experimental validation for tsunamis generated by submarine mass failure", EOS Trans. AGU, 84(46), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS22B-1158.

  49. Grilli, S. T., Watts, P., Day, S. J. and Kirby, J. T., 2003, "Boussinesq Modeling of the Complex 1975 Kalapana, Hawaii Geological Event", EOS Trans. AGU, 84(46), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS22B-1159.

  50. Murty, T., Watts, P., Fullarton, M., Grilli, S. T., Kirby, J.T., 2003, "Boussinesq modeling of the 1975 Kitimat, British Columbia landslide tsunami", EOS Trans. AGU, 84(46), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS22B-1160.

  51. Shi, F. and Kirby, J. T., 2003, "An enhanced REF/DIF model for wave predictions in tidal inlets", EOS, Trans. AGU, 8 (52), Ocean Sciences Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS42A-13.

  52. Fryer, G., Watts, P., Grilli, S. T. and Kirby, J. T., 2004, "The Aleutian landslide-tsunami of 1946", submitted for International Geological Congress, Florence, August 2004.

  53. Kirby, J. T., Shi, F., Watts, P. and Grilli, S. T., 2004, ``Propagation of short, dispersive tsunami waves in ocean basins'', EOS Trans. AGU, 85(47), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS21E-02.

  54. Shi, F., Nayak, M., Qin, W., Xu, L. and Kirby, J. T., 2004, ``Coupling of NearCoM, ROMS and SWAN in a MCEL system'', EOS Trans. AGU, 85(47), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS23E-04.

  55. North, E. W., Chen, S.-N., Hood, R. R., Shi, F., Sanford, L. P., Kirby, J. T., Koch, E. W., Newell, R. I. E., 2005, ``Understanding the effects of oyster reefs and breakwaters on seagrass habitat: an open-source modeling approach'', presented at Estuarine Research Foundation Meeting, Norfolk.

  56. Grilli, S. T., Ioualalen, M., Asavanant, J., Kirby, J. T., Shi, F., Watts, P. and Dias, F., 2005, ``Modeling of the 12/26/04 Indian Ocean tsunami generation, propagation, and coastal impact. Integration of the SEATOS cruise and other geophysical data'', Eos Trans. AGU, 86(52), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract U13A-07.

  57. Shi, F., Kirby, J. T. and Haas, K., 2006, ``Investigation of consistency between two types of wave force formulation in modeling of rip currents'', Eos Trans. AGU, 87(36), Ocean Sci. Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS32B-02.

  58. Guannel, G., Ozkan-Haller, H. T., Magalen, J., Haller, M. and Kirby, J., 2006, ``Evaluation of boundary layer models in the mobilization and onshore transport of sediments'', Eos Trans. AGU, 87(36), Ocean Sci. Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS42C-03.

  59. Magalen, J. M., Haller, M. C., Ozkan-Haller, H. T., Kirby, J. T., Guannel, G. and Teran Cobo, P., 2006, ``Testing energetics-based models for onshore sediment transport'', Eos Trans. AGU, 87(36), Ocean Sci. Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS35E-27.

  60. Geiman, J., Qin, W., Nayak, M., Kirby, J. T. and Badiey, M., 2006, "Strong tidal modulation of estuarine surface wind waves", EOS Trans. AGU, 87(36), Jt. Assem. Suppl., Abstract OS33A-05.

  61. Shi, F., Hanes, D. M., Eshleman, J., Erickson, L., Barnard, P. and Kirby, J., 2006, "NearCoM modeling of San Francisco Bight and its open coast", EOS Trans. AGU, 87(52), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS41B-0607.

  62. Kirby, J. T., Briganti, R., Brocchini, M. and Chen, Q. J., 2006, "Lagrangian particle statistics of numerically simulated shear waves", EOS Trans. AGU, 87(52), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract OS41C-0633.

  63. Grilli, S. T., Baptista, A. M., Ioualalen, M., Asavanant, J., Kirby, J. T., Shi, F. and Zhang, Y. L., 2006, "Effects of frequency dispersion on tsunami propagation and coastal impact", Geophysical Res. Abstracts , 8, 09021, SRef-ID: 1607-7962/gra/EGU06-A-09021.

  64. Chen, Y., Shi, F. and Kirby, J. T., 2007, "Coupling of ROMS and SWAN for predicting waves and currents in Delaware Bay", poster presentation at Gordon Research Conference, New London, NH.

  65. Shi F., Hanes D. M. and Kirby J. T., 2007, "Modeling of an erosional hot spot at Ocean Beach, California", presented at ROMS Workshop, Los Angles, October.

  66. Brady, D., Di Toro, D., Kirby, J., Xu, L. and Targett, T., 2007, "Water quality modeling of diel-cycling hypoxia in Delaware's coastal bays", presented at ERF '07, Estuarine Research Foundation, Providence, Nov 4-8.

  67. Shi, F., Kirby, J. T., Haller, M. C. and Catalan, P., 2008, "Numerical study on surfzone air bubbles using a multiphase VOF model", Ocean Sciences Meeting, Orlando, February.

  68. Guannel, G. E., Ozkan-Haller, H. T., Haller, M. C., Kirby, J. T. and Teran Cobo, P., 2008, "Modeling of sediment transport modes during CROSSTEX experiment", Ocean Sciences Meeting, Orlando, February.

  69. Kirby, J. T., MacMahan, J. H., Reniers, A., Geiman, J., Brown, J. and Stanton, T., 2008, "Model/data comparison for Lagrangian trajectories and mixing estiamtes over complex nearshore bathymetry", Euromech Colloquium 501: Mixing of coastal, estuarine and riverine shallow flows, Ancona, June 8-11. Abstracts published on CD.

  70. Ma, G., Shi, F. and Kirby, J. T., 2008, "Two-phase approach for simulating surfzone bubbles", Eos Trans. AGU, 89(53), Fall Meeting Suppl., Abstract OS13D-1247.

  71. Hampson, R. W. and Kirby, J. T., 2008, "Video-based Nearshore Depth Inversion using WDM Method", Eos Trans. AGU, 89(53), Fall Meeting Suppl., Abstract OS21E-1224.

  72. Geiman, J., Kirby, J. T., Reniers, A., MacMahan, J. H., Brown, J. W., Brown, J. A. and Stanton, T. P., 2008, "Wave-averaged and wave-resolving simulations of the RCEX experiment: Mean flows and drifter dispersion", Eos Trans. AGU,
  73. Shi, F., Zhu, S. and Kirby, J. T., 2008, "A surfzone circulation model with influence of surf-swash interaction", EOS Trans. AGU,
  74. Geiman, J., Kirby, J. T., Reniers, A. J. H. M., MacMahan, J. H., Brown, J. W., Brown, J. A. and Stanton, T. P., 2009, "Coherence of eddies in a rip channeled surfzone", LAPCOD 2009, La Londe-les-Maures, Sept. 7-11. Abstract C101.

  75. Geiman, J., Kirby, J. T., Reniers, A. J., MacMahan, J. H., Brown, J., Brown, J. and Stanton, T. P., 2010, "Effect of wave-averaging on coherent structure boundaries in the surfzone", submitted for Ocean Sciences Meeting, Portland, February.

  76. Ma, G., Shi, F. and Kirby, J. T., 2010, "A polydisperse two-fluid model for surfzone bubble simulation", submitted for Ocean Sciences Meeting, Portland, February.

  77. Shi, F., Kirby, J. T. and Hanes, D. M., 2010, "Is the erosional hotspot at Ocean Beach, San Francisco, caused by wave focussing? - From modeling point of view", submitted for Ocean Sciences Meeting, Portland, February.

  78. Karjadi, E., Badiey, M., Kirby, J. T. and Bayinder, C., 2010, "Impact of time-varying surface gravity waves on high frequency acoustic propagation in shallow water", submitted for 159th ASA Meeting, Baltimore, April.

  79. Ma, G., Shi, F. and Kirby, J. T., 2010, "A polydisperse two-fluid model for bubble plume under breaking waves", submitted for 7th Intl. Conf. Multiphase Flow, Tampa, May 30 - June 4.

Additional Technical Reports

  1. Kirby, J. T., 1976, ``Some aspects of the upstream disturbance in the flow of a two-layered stratified fluid over an obstacle'', M.S. thesis, Brown University, June.

  2. Roberge, J. C. and Kirby, J. T., 1977, ``Hydraulic model studies for the expansion of the port of Champerico, Guatemala'', Alden Research Laboratory, Worcester Polytechnic Institute, Report No. 122-77/M350CF, September.

  3. Kirby, J.T. and Brocard, D.N., 1978, ``Minimization of recirculation in submerged intakes located offshore of a diffuser discharge - a hydrothermal model study for the J.H. Campbell Electric Generating Station, Units 1 through 4'', Alden Research Laboratory, Worcester Polytechnic Institute, Report No. 35-78/M182CF, February.

  4. Kirby, J.T. and Brocard, D.N., 1978, ``Feasibility study for various remedial plans for achieving full mixing in a discharge canal'', Alden Research Laboratory, Worcester Polytechnic Institute, letter report, April.

  5. Kirby, J.T. and Brocard, D.N., ``An investigation of the effect of discharge velocity on surface isotherm areas'', Alden Research Laboratory, Worcester Polytechnic Institute, letter report, June, 1978.

  6. Kirby, J.T. and Roberge, J.C., ``An investigation of remedial plans for minimizing shoaling in a recessed intake forebay'', Alden Research Laboratory, Worcester Polytechnic Institute, Report No. 21-79, February, 1979.

  7. Kirby, J.T. and Brocard,D.N., ``Analytical prediction of surface temperature rises induced by blowdown discharge - Palisades Nuclear Power Plant'', Alden Research Laboratory, Worcester Polytechnic Institute, Report No. 40-79, April, 1979.

  8. Kirby, J.T., Steiner, U. and Brocard, D.N., ``Analytic prediction of bounding streamlines for flow into offshore submerged intakes'', Alden Research Laboratory, Worcester Polytechnic Institute, Report No. 107-79, June, 1979.

  9. Kirby, J.T. and Brocard, D.N., ``Remedial structures for inducing full lateral mixing in a discharge channel'', Alden Research Laboratory, Worcester Polytechnic Institute, Report No. 93-79, July, 1979.

  10. Kirby, J.T. and Brocard, D.N., ``Hydrothermal model studies of a diffuser discharge in a coastal environment'', Alden Research Laboratory, Worcester Polytechnic Institute, Report No. 127-79, July, 1979.

  11. Kirby, J.T. and Dalrymple, R.A., ``Numerical modelling of the nearshore region'', Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, Research Report CE-82-24, June, 1982.

  12. Kirby, J.T., 1983, ``Propagation of weakly-nonlinear surface water waves in regions with varying depth and current'', Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, Research Report CE-83-37, July. (also Ph.D. dissertation)

  13. Kirby, J.T., 1985, ``Water wave propagation over uneven bottoms'', Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department, University of Florida, Technical Report UFL/COEL-TR/055, January.

  14. Dalrymple, R.A. and Kirby, J.T., 1986, ``Wave modification in the vicinity of islands. REF/DIF 1 Documentation manual'', Coastal and Offshore Engineering and Research, Inc., Newark, DE., January, 1985. (Revised June, 1986)

  15. Kirby, J.T. and Dalrymple, R.A., 1986, ``Combined refraction/diffraction model REF/DIF 1, user's manual'', Coastal and Offshore Engineering and Research, Inc., Newark, DE., January, 1985. (Revised June, 1986)

  16. Kirby, J.T., 1986, ``A model for the gradual reflection of weakly two-dimensional waves in water with varying depth and currents: governing equations'', Tech. Report UFL/COEL-TR/060, Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department, University of Florida, Gainesville, July, 1986.

  17. Kirby, J.T. and Dalrymple, R.A., 1986, ``Combined refraction/diffraction model model REF/DIF 2, user's manual'', Coastal and Offshore Engineering and Research, Inc., Newark, DE.

  18. Vengayil, P. and Kirby, J.T., 1986, ``Shoaling and reflection of nonlinear long waves'', Tech. Report UFL/COEL-TR/062 , Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department, University of Florida, Gainesville.

  19. Kirby, J.T., 1987, ``A program for calculating the reflectivity of beach profiles'', Misc. Report UFL/COEL-87/004, Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department, University of Florida, Gainesville.

  20. Kaku, H. and Kirby, J.T., 1988, ``A parabolic model in polar coordinates for breakwater harbors'', Tech. Report UFL/COEL-TR/075, Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department, University of Florida, Gainesville, May.

  21. Kirby, J.T., 1988, ``Survey data report: Cape Canaveral March - July 1988'', Report UFL/COEL-88/011, Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department, University of Florida, Gainesville, November.

  22. Kirby, J. T. and Anton, J. P. , 1990, ``Modelling bathymetric control of near coastal wave climate: Report 2'', Report CACR-90-1, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware.

  23. Kirby, J. T., 1990, ``Evaluation of wave height correction algorithm for SHOALS system'', for Coastal Engineering Research Center, USAE-WES, Vicksburg, draft.

  24. Holman,R.A., Bowen,A.J., Dalrymple, R.A., Dean, R.G., Elgar, S., Flick, R., Freilich, M., Guza, R.T., Hanes, D., Kirby, J., Madsen, O., Sternberg, R. and Svendsen, I., 1990, ``Report on the state of nearshore processes research. Report from the Nearshore Processes Workshop, St. Petersburg, FL, April 1989'', Report OSU-CO-90-6, Oregon State University.

  25. Kirby, J. T. and Ozkan, H. T., 1992, ``Combined Refraction/Diffraction Model for Spectral Wave Conditions REF/DIF S, Version 1.0. Documentation and User's Manual'', Research Report No. CACR-92-06, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark.

  26. Kirby, J. T. and Dalrymple, R. A., 1993, ``Combined Refraction/Diffraction Model REF/DIF 1, Version 2.4. Documentation and User's Manual'', Research Report No. CACR-92-04, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark.

  27. Kirby, J. T., 1993, ``Wave conditions in North Channel'', consulting report to Marex Technology Limited, Isle of Wight, UK.

  28. Kirby, J. T. and Özkan, H. T., 1994, ``Combined Refraction/Diffraction Model for Spectral Wave Conditions REF/DIF S, Version 1.1. Documentation and User's Manual'', Research Report No. CACR-94-04, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark.

  29. Bowen, G. D. and Kirby, J. T., 1994, ``Shoaling and breaking random waves on a 1:35 laboratory beach'', Research Report No. CACR-94-14, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, June.

  30. Ge Wei, J. T. Kirby, S. T. Grilli and R. Subramanya, 1994, ``A Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Model for Surface Waves. I. Highly Nonlinear, Unsteady Waves,'', Research Report No. CACR-94-15, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, June.

  31. Kirby, J. T. and Dalrymple, R. A., 1994, ``Combined Refraction/Diffraction Model REF/DIF 1, Version 2.5. Documentation and User's Manual'', Research Report No. CACR-94-22, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark.

  32. Kirby, J. T., 1994, ``Wave conditions at Bacton, U. K. and Zeebrugge, Belgium'', Consulting report to Paras Limited, Isle of Wight, UK.

  33. Gobbi, M. F. and Kirby, J. T., 1998, ``A new Boussinesq-type model for surface water wave propagation'', Report No. CACR-98-01, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of Delaware.

  34. Kirby, J. T., Wei, G., Chen, Q., Kennedy, A. B. and Dalrymple, R. A., 1998, ``FUNWAVE 1.0. Fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model. Documentation and user's manual'', Report CACR-98-06, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of Delaware.

  35. Chawla, A. and Kirby, J. T., 1999, ``Waves on opposing currents: Data report'', Report CACR-99-03, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of Delaware.

  36. Misra, S. K., Kennedy, A. B. and Kirby, J. T., 2000, ``Determining water depths from surface images using Boussinesq equations'', Report CACR-00-01, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of Delaware.

  37. Chawla, A. and Kirby, J. T., 2000, ``An experimental study on the dynamics of wave blocking and breaking on opposing currents'', Report CACR-00-02, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of Delaware.

  38. Hommel, D. L., Kirby, J. T. and Shi, F., 2001, "Vortex formation resulting from solitary wave interaction with a breakwater", Report CACR-01-03, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of Delaware.

  39. Gungordu, O. and Kirby, J. T., 2001, ``Evolution of coupled hydrodynamic and bed instabilities'', Research Report No. CACR-01-04, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of Delaware.

  40. Qin, W., Kirby, J. T. and Badiey, M., 2005, ``Application of the spectral wave model SWAN in Delaware Bay'', Research Report No. CACR-05-09, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Dept. of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Univ. of Delaware, Newark, November.

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kirby@udel.edu
November 16, 2009