Class: MW 1000-1130 Memorial Hall 126

Instructor: Jim Kirby
Ocean Engineering Laboratory 201
831-2438
kirby@udel.edu

Required Text: Dean, R. G. and Dalrymple, R. A., Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists

• Introduction and review of governing equations.
  • Scaling the boundary value problem for water waves.
  • Inviscid irrotational flow.
  • Linearized, free surface motion.
• The basic linear wave in constant depth.
  • One horizontal dimension.
  • Solutions by superposition.
  • Helmholtz equation and BVP for bounded domains.
• Waves in slowly varying domains.
  • Mild slope equation for slowly varying depth.
  • Refraction, shoaling.
  • Modern modeling approaches.
• Long wave theory.
• Diffraction by structures and sudden depth changes.
  • Additional physical effects.
  • Corrections for bottom friction and percolation.

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  Supplemental References

  • Berkhoff, ICCE, 1972
  • Smith and Sprinks, J. Fluid Mech., 1975
  • Kirby, J. Fluid Mech., 1986
  • Chamberlain and Porter, J. Fluid Mech., 1995

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  Grading: The semester grade will be based on two elements:

  • Assigned homeworks.
  • Midterm and final exams.

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  Return to CACR home page.
  
  kirby@udel.edu
  October 21, 2009