Development and Verification of a Comprehensive
Community Model for Physical Processes in the Nearshore Ocean
A project funded by
National Oceanographic Partnership Program
Principal Investigator:
James T. Kirby
Center for Applied Coastal Research
University of Delaware
Newark, DE 19716
Publications
Books
- Svendsen, I. A., 2006, Introduction to nearshore hydrodynamics. World
Scientific.
Chapters in Books
- Kaihatu, J. M., "Frequency domain wave models in the nearshore and
surfzones", in Advances in Coastal Engineering, V. C.
Lakhan (ed), Elsevier, pp. 43-72, 2003.
- Kirby, J. T., "Boussinesq models and applications to nearshore wave
propagation, surfzone processes and wave-induced currents", in Advances in Coastal
Engineering, V. C. Lakhan (ed), Elsevier, pp. 1-41, 2003.
(pdf)
Journal Articles
- Ardhuin, F., and T. H. C. Herbers, 2002, "Bragg scattering of random
surface gravity waves by irregular sea bed topography", J. Fluid
Mech., 451, 1-33.
- Ardhuin, F., Drake, T. G. and Herbers, T. H. C., 2002, "Observations of
wave-generated vortex ripples on the North Carolina continental
shelf", J. Geophys. Res., 107(C10), 3143,
doi:10.1029/2001JC000986.
(pdf)
- Calantoni, J., Holland, K. T. and Drake, T. G., 2004, "Modelling sheet- flow
sediment transport in wave-bottom boundary layers using discrete- element
modelling", Phil. Trans. R. Soc. London A, 362, 1987-2001.
- Chang, Y. S. and D. M. Hanes, 2004, "Field observation and numerical
investigation of the suspended sediment distribution over rippled seabeds",
J. Geophysical Research, 109, C07022, doi:10.1029/2003JC001900.
(pdf)
- Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A., Shi, F. and Thornton, E. B.,
2003,
"Boussinesq modeling of longshore currents", J. Geophys.
Res., in press.
- Chen, Q. and Svendsen, I. A., 2003, "Effects of boundary condition errors
in nearshore circulation modeling", Coastal Engineering, 48,
243-256.
- Coco, G., Burnet, T. K., Werner, B. T. and Elgar, S., 2003,
"Test of self-organization in beach cusp formation",
J. Geophys. Res., 108, 3101, doi:10.1029/2002JC001496.
(pdf)
- Dohmen-Janssen, C. M. and D. M. Hanes, 2002, "Sheet flow dynamics under monochromatic nonbreaking waves", J. Geophysical Research, 107(C10), 3149, doi:10.1029/2001JC001045.
(pdf)
- Dohmen-Janssen, C. M. and Hanes, D. M., 2005, "Sheet flow and suspension under wave groups in a large wave flume", Cont. Shelf Res., 25, 333-347.
(pdf)
- Drake, T.G. and Calantoni, J., 2001, "Discrete particle model for sheet flow sediment transport in the nearshore", J. Geophys. Res., 106, 19859-19868.
- Elgar, S., 2001, "Coastal profile evolution at Duck, North Carolina: A cautionary note", J. Geophysical Research, 106, 4625-4627.
- Elgar, S., E. Gallagher, and R. T. Guza, 2001,
"Nearshore sand bar migration", J. Geophysical Research,
106(C6), 11,623-11,627.
(pdf)
- Elgar, Steve, B. Raubenheimer, & T.H. Herbers, 2003,
"Bragg reflection of ocean waves from sandbars",
Geophysical Research Letters, 30(1), 1016, doi:10.1029/2002GL016351.
(pdf)
- Feddersen, F., and R.T. Guza, 2003, "Observations of nearshore circulation:
Alongshore uniformity", J. Geophys. Res., 108(C1), 3006,
doi:10.1029/2001JC001293.
(pdf)
and "Correction", J. Geophys. Res., 108(C3), 3076,
doi:10.1029/2001JC001801.
- Feddersen, F., E. Gallagher, R.T. Guza, and S. Elgar, 2003, "The drag coefficient, bottom roughness, and wave-breaking in the nearshore", Coastal Engrng., 48, 189-195.
- Feddersen, F., R.T. Guza, and S. Elgar, 2004, "Inverse modeling of one-dimensional setup and alongshore current in the nearshore", J. Phys. Oceanog., 34, 920-933.
(pdf)
- Feddersen, F., 2004, "Effect of wave directional-spread on the radiation stress: comparing theory and
observations", Coastal Engrng., 51, 473-481.
- Feddersen, F. and Veron, F., 2005, "Wind effects on shoaling wave shape", J. Phys.
Oceanogr., 35, 1223-1228.
- Feddersen, F. and Trowbridge, J. H., "The effect of wave-breaking on surfzone turbulence and
alongshore currents: a modeling study", J. Phys. Oceanogr., in press.
- Haas, K. A. and I. A. Svendsen, 2002, "Laboratory measurements of the
vertical structure of rip currents", J.
Geophys. Res., 107(C5), 10.1029/2001JC000911.
(pdf)
- Haas, K. A., I. A. Svendsen, M. C. Haller and Q, Zhao, 2003, "Quasi-three-dimensional modelling of rip current systems", J. Geophys. Res. , 108(C7), 3217, doi:10.1029/2002JC001355.
- Haas, K.A., and D.M. Hanes, 2004, "Process based modeling of total longshore sediment transport", J. Coastal Research, 20, 853-861.
(pdf)
- Haas, K. A., Kennedy, A. B. and Sapp, B. K., 2008, ``Video measurements of large-scale flows in a laboratory wave basin'', J. Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engrng., ,134, 12-20.
- Hanes, D.M., V. Alymov, Y. Chang, and C.D. Jette, 2001, "Wave formed sand ripples at Duck, North Carolina", J. Geophysical Research, 106, 22,575 - 22,592.
(pdf)
- Henderson, S. M., J. S. Allen, and P. A. Newberger, 2004, "Nearshore sandbar migration predicted by an eddy-diffusive
boundary layer model", J. Geophys. Res., 109, C06024, doi:10.1029/2003JC002137.
- Henderson, S.M., Guza, R. T., Elgar, S. and Herbers, T. H. C., "Refraction of surface gravity waves by shear waves", J. Phys. Oceanogr., revision submitted.
- Herbers, T. H. C., Elgar, S., Sarap, N. A. and Guza, R. T., 2002, "Nonlinear dispersion of surface gravity waves in shallow water", J. Phys. Oceanogr., 32, 1181-1193.
- Herbers, T.H.C., M. Orzech, S. Elgar, and R. T. Guza, 2003, "Shoaling transformation of wave frequency-directional spectra", J. Geophys. Res., 108(C1), 3013, doi:10.1029/2001JC001304.
- Hsu, T.J., and D.M. Hanes, 2004, "The effects of wave shape on sheet flow sediment transport", J. Geophys. Res., 109, C05025, doi:10.1029/2003JC002075.
(pdf)
- Kaihatu, J., 2001, "Improvement of a nonlinear parabolic dispersive wave model", J. Waterway, Port, Coast. and Ocean Engrng., 127, 113-121.
- Kennedy, A. B., Kirby, J. T. and Gobbi, M. F., 2002, "Simplified higher order Boussinesq equations. 1: Linear simplifications", Coastal Engineering, 44, 205-229.
(pdf)
- Kennedy, A. B. and Kirby, J. T., 2003, "An unsteady wave driver for narrowbanded waves: Modeling nearshore circulation driven by wave groups", Coastal Engineering, 48, 257-275.
(pdf)
- Kennedy, A. B., 2004, "Fluctuating circulation forced by unsteady multidirectional breaking
waves", J. Fluid Mech., 538, 189-198.
- MacMahan, J. H., Reniers, A. J. H. M., Thornton, E. B. and Stanton, T. P., 2004, "Surf zone eddies coupled with rip current morphology", J. Geophys. Res., 109, C07004, doi:10.1029/2003JC002083.
(pdf)
- MacMahan, J. H., Thornton, E. B. and Reniers, A. J. H. M., "Rip current review", Coastal Engineering, in press.
- Martin, S.D., E.B. Thornton and T.P. Stanton, 2001, "Vortex ripple morphology using DUNE2D", submitted to J. Geophys. Res.
- Mellor, G., 2002, "Oscillatory bottom boundary layers", J. Phys. Oceanogr., 32, 3075-3088.
- Mellor, G., 2003, "The three-dimensional, current and surface wave equations", J. Phys. Oceanogr., 33, 1978-1989.
- Mellor, G. and Blumberg, A. , 2004, "Wave breaking and ocean surface layer thermal response", J. Phys. Oceanogr., 34, 693-698.
- Mellor, G., 2005, "Some consequences of the three-dimensional current and surface wave equations", J. Phys. Oceanogr, 35, 2291-2298.
- Mellor, G., 2005, "A combined wave current numerical model: Part I, the wave model", J. Phys. Oceanogr., Submitted
- Mellor, G., 2005, "A combined wave current numerical model: Part II, the surface boundary layer", J. Phys. Oceanogr., in preparation.
- Mellor, G., Donelan, M. A. and Oey, L-Y., 2007, ``A surface wave model for coupling with numerical ocean circulation models'', submitted to {\em J. Phys. Oceanogr.}
- Misra, S. K., Thomas, M., Kambhamettu, C., Kirby, J. T., Veron, F. and Brocchini, M., 2006, "Estimation of complex air-water interfaces from PIV images'', Experiments in Fluids, doi 10.1007/s00348-006-0113-1.April.
- Misra, S. K., Kirby, J. T., Brocchini, M., Veron, F., Thomas, M. and Kambhamettu, C., 2008, "The mean and turbulent flow structure of a weak hydraulic jump", Physics of Fluids, 20, 035106
- Morichon, D., B. Boczar-Karakiewicz, E.B. Thornton, and W. Romancxyk, 2001, Boussinesq joint wave height-period distribution model", to be submitted to Coastal Engineering.
- Newberger, P.A. and J.S. Allen, 2005, Forcing a three-dimensional, hydrostatic primitive-equation model for application in the surf zone, Part I: Formulation. submitted to J. Geophys. Res.
- Newberger, P.A. and J.S. Allen, 2005, Forcing a three-dimensional, hydrostatic primitive-equation model for application in the surf zone, Part II: Application to DUCK94. submitted to J. Geophys. Res.
- Noyes, T. J., R. T. Guza, S. Elgar, and T. H. C. Herbers, 2002, "Comparison of methods for estimating nearshore shear wave variance", J. Atmos. Oceanic Tech., 19, 136-143.
- Noyes, T.J., R.T. Guza, S. Elgar, and T.H.C. Herbers, 2004, Field observations of shear waves in the surf zone, J. Geophys. Res., 109, C01031, doi:10.1029/2002JC001761.
- Noyes, T.J., Guza, R. T., Feddersen, F., Elgar, S. and Herbers, T. H. C., 2005, "Model-data comparisons of shear waves in the nearshore", J. Geophys. Res., 110, C05019, doi:10.1029/2004JC002541.
(pdf)
- Puleo, J. A., Mouraneko, O. and Hanes, D. M., 2004, "1D wave bottom boundary layer comparison: specific eddy viscosity and turbulence closure models", J Waterway, Port, Coast. Ocean Engrng., 130, 322-325.
(pdf)
- Prasad, R. S., and Svendsen, I. A., 2003, "Moving shoreline boundary condition for nearshore models", Coastal Engineering, 49, 239-261.
- Reniers, A. J. H. M., Roelvink, J. A. and Thornton, E. B., 2004, ``Morphodynamic modeling of an
embayed beach under wave group forcing'', J. Geophys. Res.,, 109, C01030,
doi:10.1029/2002JC001586.
- Ruessink, G., J. Miles, F. Feddersen, R. T. Guza, and Steve Elgar, 2001, "Modeling the alongshore current on barred beaches", J. Geophysical Research, 106, 22451-22463.
- Sheremet, A., Guza, R. T., Elgar, S. and Herbers, T. H. C., 2002, "Observations of nearshore infragravity waves: Part 1 : Seaward and shoreward propagating components", J. Geophys. Res., 107, doi:
10.1029/2001JC000970.
- Sheremet, A., Guza, R. T. and Herbers, T. H. C., 2005, "A new estimator for directional properties of nearshore waves", J. Geophys. Res., 110, C01001, doi:10.1029/2003JC002236, 2005.
(pdf)
- Shi, F., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A. and Chen, Q., 2003, ``Wave simulations in Ponce de Leon Inlet using a Boussinesq model'', J. Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 129, 124-135.
- Shi, F., Svendsen, I. A., Kirby, J. T. and Smith, J. M., 2003, "A curvilinear version of a quasi-3D nearshore circulation model", Coastal Engineering, 49, 99-124.
(pdf)
- Shi, F. and Kirby, J. T., 2005, ``Curvilinear parabolic approximation for surface wave
transformation using covariant-contravariant tensor method'', J. Comp. Phys., 204, 562-586.
- Thomas, M., Misra, S., Kambhamettu, C. and Kirby, J. T., 2005, "A robust motion estimation algorithm for PIV", Measurement Science and Technology, 16, 865-877.
- Thorne, P. D. and D. M. Hanes, 2002, "A review of acoustic methods for the study of small scale sediment transport processes", Continental Shelf Research, 22, 603-632.
(pdf)
- Vincent, C.E. and D.M. Hanes, 2002, "The accumulation and decay of nearbed suspended sand concentration due to waves and wave groups", Continental Shelf Research, 22(14), 1987-2000.
(pdf)
- Zhao, Q., Svendsen, I. A. and Haas, K., 2003, "Three-dimensional effects in shear waves", J. Geophysical Research, 108(C8), 3270, doi:10.1029/2002JC001306.
- Zhao, Q. and Svendsen, I. A., "Quasi-3D Modeliong of depth-averaged and depth-varying currents on a barred beach with a swash boundary condition", submitted to Coastal Engrng.
Conference Proceedings
- Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A., Kennedy, A. B., Thornton,
E. B. and Shi, F., 2000, ``Boussinesq modeling of waves and longshore
currents under field conditions'', Proc. 27th Intl. Conf. Coastal
Engrng., ASCE, Sydney, 651-663.
- Chen, Q. and I. A. Svendsen, "Effects of cross-shore
boundaries on longshore current simulations", Proc ASCE Conf. Waves
2001, San Francisco, Sept., 2001.
- Doering, J. C., Elfrink, B., Hanes, D. M. and Ruessink, G., 2000,
``Parameterization of velocity skewness under waves and its effect on
cross-shore sediment transport'', Proc. 27th Intl. Conf. Coastal
Engrng., ASCE, Sydney, 1383-1396.
- Haas, K. A.\, I. A. Svendsen, and Q. Zhao (2001). Waves and
currents on accretional barred beaches. Proc ASCE Conf. Waves 2001.
- Kaihatu, J. M., Kirby, J. T. and Svendsen, I. A., ``Incorporation of
random wave effects into a quasi-3D nearshore circulation model'',
presented at 28th Intl.
Conf. Coastal Engrng., Cardiff, July 2002.
- Kaihatu, J.M., and O'Reilly, W.C. "Model predictions and
sensitivity analysis of nearshore processes over complex
bathymetry," Proceedings of the 7th International Workshop on
Wave Hindcasting and Forecasting, Banff, Alberta, Canada, 2002,
to appear.
- Kaihatu, J. M., Edwards, K. L> and O'Reilly, W. C., "Model predictions
of nearshore processes over complex bathymetry", Proceedings of Oceans
2002, MTS/IEEE, Biloxi, October 2002, to appear.
- Kennedy, A. B. and Kirby, J. T., ``Computing unsteady
refraction/diffraction in the nearshore'', presented at 28th International
Conference on
Coastal Engineering, Cardiff, July 2002.
- Kirby, J. T. and Chen, Q., ``Examining the low frequency predictions of
Boussinesq wave models'', presented at 28th Intl. Conf.
Coastal Engrng., Cardiff, July 2002.
- Misra, S., Kirby, J. T. and Svendsen, I. A., ``Simulating
non-hydrostatic free surface flows'', presented at 28th Intl. Conf.
Coastal Engrng., Cardiff, July 2002.
- Sheremet, A., R. T. Guza, S. Elgar
and T.H.C. Herbers, 2000, "Estimating infragravity wave properties from
pressure-current meter array observations", Proc. 27th Intl. Conf. on
Coastal Engineering, 1476-1489, ASCE, Sydney.
- Shi, F., Svendsen, I. A., Kirby, J. T. and Smith, J. M., ``Quasi-3D
curvilinear modeling of nearshore circulation'', presented at 28th
Intl. Conf.
Coastal Engrng., Cardiff, July 2002.
- Kaihatu, J. M., Edwards, K. L. and O'Reilly, W. C., ``Model predictions of
nearshore processes near complex bathymetry'', to be presented at Oceans
2002, MTS/IEEE, Biloxi, October 2002.
- Zhao, Q., I. A. Svendsen and K. Haas, "Lateral mixing and shear waves",
Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis. Proc. of the Fourth International
Symposium. Waves 2001, San Francisco, Sept., 1467-1476, 2001.
- Zhao, Q., I. A. Svendsen and K. Haas, "Three-dimensional lateral mixing in
shear waves", Proc. 28th Intl. Conf. Coastal Engrng., Cardiff,
July 2002.
Unpublished Presentations at
Conferences and Meetings
- Calantoni, J., and T.G. Drake (1999), Bedload transport on sloping beds in the surf zone, Eos Trans. AGU, 80(17), Spring Meeting Suppl., S194.
- Calantoni, J., and T.G. Drake (2000), Bedload transport in the surf zone: fixing energetics models, Eos Trans. AGU, 81(45), Fall Meeting Suppl., F416.
- Calantoni, J., and T.G. Drake (2001), Effect of local slope on bed load transport in the surf zone, Eos Trans. AGU, 82(47), Fall Meeting Suppl., F587.
- Elgar, S., E. Gallagher, and R. T. Guza,
"Onshore sandbar migration",
presented at American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco.
Abstract published in
EOS Trans. AGU, 80, F538, 1999.
- Elgar, S. et al, to be presented at American Geophysical
Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco, December, 2002.
- Feddersen F., R.T. Guza, S. Elgar, and T.H.C. Herbers,
"Inverse modeling of alongshore current dynamics",
presented at ICCE Meeting, published in
Abstracts, 27th Coastal Eng. Conf., Amer. Soc. Civil Eng., Sydney, 2000
- Feddersen, F., R.T. Guza, and S. Elgar,
"Observations of nearshore circulation",
presented at American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco.
Abstract published in
EOS, Trans. AGU, 81, F667, 2000.
- Guza, R. T. and S. Elgar, "Review of surfzone observations of alongshore
currents",
presented at American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco.
Abstract published in Eos Trans. AGU, 82(47), F616, Suppl.,
2001.
- Guza,Noyes,Elgar & Herbers, "Field observations of shear waves", to be
presented at American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco,
Dec. 2002.
- Hanes, D. M., "Sediment transport modeling in the nearshore community
model",
invited talk presented at Ocean Sciences Meeting, Honolulu, February
2002.
- Hoefel, F., Elgar, S. and others?, to be presented at American
Geophysical
Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco, December, 2002.
- Kaihatu, J. M., Kirby, J. T. and Svendsen, I. A., ``Incorporating random
wave effects in a
nearshore circulation model'', presented at American Geophysical
Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco, December 10-14, 2001. Abstract
published in EOS
Trans. AGU, 82, F598, 2001.
- Kirby, J. T., ``Nearshore community model development: A look ahead'',
invited talk presented at American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting,
San Francisco, December 13-17, 1999. Abstract published in EOS,
Trans. AGU, 80, F512, 1999.
- Noyes T.J., R.T. Guza, S. Elgar, and T.H.C. Herbers,
"Observations of shear waves",
presented at ICCE Meeting, published in
Abstracts, 27th Coastal Eng. Conf., Amer. Soc. Civil Eng., Sydney, 2000
- Noyes, T.J., R.T. Guza, S. Elgar, and T.H.C. Herbers,
"Estimating shear wave variance",
presented at American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco.
Abstract published in
EOS Trans. AGU, 81, F665, 2000.
- Ruessink, G,, J.R. Miles, F. Feddersen, R.T. Guza, and S. Elgar,
"Modeling the alongshore current on barred beaches",
presented at American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco.
Abstract published in
EOS Trans. AGU, 81, F665, 2000.
- Sheremet A., R.T. Guza, S. Elgar, and T.H.C. Herbers,
"Bound infragravity waves",
presented at ICCE Meeting, published in
Abstracts, 27th Coastal Eng. Conf., Amer. Soc. Civil Eng., Sydney, 2000
- Sheremet, A., R.T. Guza, S. Elgar, and T.H.C. Herbers,
"Bound infragravity waves",
presented at American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, San Francisco.
Abstract published in
EOS Trans. AGU, 81, F665, 2000.
- Sheremet, Guza, Elgar, Herbers, "Directional properties of infragravity
waves", to be presented at American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting,
San Francisco, Dec., 2002.
- Shi, F., Svendsen, I. A. and Kirby, J. T., 2000, ``A curvilinear version of
SHORECIRC'', presented at American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting,
San Francisco, December. Abstract published in EOS Trans. AGU,
81, F609, 2000.
- Thaxton, C.S., Calantoni, J., and T.G. Drake (2001), Can a single representative grain size describe bed load transport in the surf zone?, Eos Trans. AGU, 82(47), Fall Meeting Suppl., F587.
- Zhao, Q., "The effect of depth-varying eddy viscosity and short-wave
forcing on SHORECIRC", to be presented at American Geophysical Union Fall
Meeting, San Francisco, December 2002.
- Zhao, Q. and Svendsen, I. A., 2004, "Swash zone boundary condition for wave-averaged models",
presented at AGU Ocean Sciences Meeting.
Papers in Preparation
- Haas, K. A. and I. A. Svendsen, "Three-dimensional modelling of rip
currents: vertical profiles".
- Kaihatu, J. M. and Kirby, J. T., "Nonlinear wave-wave interactions
in shallow water - effects of amplitude dispersion".
- Zhao, Q. and Svendsen, I. A., "Modeling depth-averaged and depth-varying currents on a barred
beach using a Quasi-3D model", manuscript.
Student Theses
- Calantoni, J., 2002, "Discrete particle model for bedload sediment transport in the surf zone", Ph.D. dissertation, 93 pp., North Carolina State University, Raleigh.
- Choi, J. W., MCE Thesis, University of Delaware, Newark
- Martin, S., 2001, "Vortex ripple morphology using DUNE2D model", M.S. Thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey.
- Misra, S., 2005, "The turbulent dynamics of quasi-steady spilling breakers - Theory and experiments", Ph.D. dissertation, University of Delaware, Newark.
- Noyes, T. J., 200X, "Field Observations of Shear Waves", Ph.D. dissertation, SIO, Univ. Cal. San Diego, La Jolla.
- Thaxton, C.S., 2004, "Investigations of grain size dependent sediment transport phenomena on multiple scales", Ph.D. dissertation, 145pp., North Carolina State University, Raleigh.
- Zhen, F., 2004, "On the numerical properties of staggered vs. non-staggered grid schemes for a Boussinesq equation model", MCE Thesis, University of Delaware, Newark.
Technical Reports
- Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A. and Shi, F., ``Combined Refraction/Diffraction Model REF/DIF 1, Version 2.6. Documentation and User's Manual'', Research Report No. CACR-02-02, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of
Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark, in preparation.
- Svendsen, I. A., Haas, K. and Zhao, Q., ``Quasi-3D nearshore circulation model SHORECIRC, Version 2.0'', Draft Report, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark, 2002.
Return
to Kirby's home page.
kirby@udel.edu
May 16, 2008